Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52 (2024)

American

by: Erin Jeanne McDowell

July3,2021

3

4 Ratings

  • Prep time 5 minutes
  • Cook time 5 minutes
  • makes 4 cups (enough to fill and frost one 8- or 9-inch cake (up to 3 layers) or 24 cupcakes

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Author Notes

I used to call this “pudding buttercream” before I knew it’s true name: ermine. This technique involves preparing a simple pudding-style custard base, then whipping butter into it to create the final frosting. This method has become one of my go-tos, because it allows for a really creamy frosting that’s thick and pipable, but also not too sweet. Be sure to let the pudding base cool to room temperature before whipping in the butter, but don’t be tempted to refrigerate it to speed it up. If it gets even a bit cold, it will make the frosting likely to split. If you’re in a hurry, pour the pudding onto a baking sheet—the greater surface area will allow it to cool much faster. —Erin Jeanne McDowell

Test Kitchen Notes

Bake It Up a Notch is a column by Resident Baking BFF Erin Jeanne McDowell. Each month, she'll help take our baking game to the next level, teaching us all the need-to-know tips and techniques and showing us all the mistakes we might make along the way. Today, a very sweet lesson in all things frostings, icings, and glazes. —The Editors

  • Test Kitchen-Approved

What You'll Need

Watch This Recipe

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding”Buttercream

Ingredients
  • 1 3/4 cups(398 grams) granulated sugar
  • 3/4 cup(90 grams) all purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup(28 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon(5 grams) instant espresso powder (optional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon(2 grams) fine sea salt
  • 2 cups(460 grams) whole milk
  • 1 pound(454 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 tablespoon(15 grams) vanilla extract
Directions
  1. In a medium pot, whisk the granulated sugar, flour, cocoa powder, espresso powder (if using), and salt. Whisk in the milk.
  2. Begin to heat the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and becomes pudding like, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a heat-safe storage container, cover directly with plastic wrap, and let cool to room temperature.
  3. Place the butter in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. With the mixer running, add the room temperature pudding mixture 1 heaping tablespoon (about 25 grams) at a time, mixing until each is fully incorporated before adding the next.
  4. Once all of the pudding base is incorporated, add the vanilla extract and mix to combine.

Tags:

  • American
  • Dessert

See what other Food52ers are saying.

Recipe by: Erin Jeanne McDowell

I always have three kinds of hot sauce in my purse. I have a soft spot for making people their favorite dessert, especially if it's wrapped in a pastry crust. My newest cookbook, Savory Baking, came out in Fall of 2022 - is full of recipes to translate a love of baking into recipes for breakfast, dinner, and everything in between!

Popular on Food52

4 Reviews

rearaerich October 11, 2022

I tried this ratio and ended up with a soupy mess. Shouldn't 2 cups of milk and close to 2 cups of sugar reqire more like 2 lbs of butter for the right ratio and consistency? It could have been me, but I wasted sell that time and money for nothing, I had to start over with a more familiar recipe, winging the chocolate part. Not my usual best work. It made delivery of the cake late!! My own fault, I guess. Need to stick to familiar when pressed for time.

avyb January 23, 2022

Made this frosting to put on a banana cake. One of the best frosting I have made! Not too sweet, airy, and absolutely delicious. Will definitely be making this again. I used instant coffee instead of espresso powder - next time I would use a little less since the coffee flavor was more forward than I wanted.

Chris August 1, 2021

Professional baker here—1 3/4 C sugar is not 398g (that would be closer to 2 cups). The actual weight is closer to 350g. I always follow recipes as written the first time through, and I found this frosting to be unpalatably sweet. I add 2/3 C more of Dutch processed cocoa powder to temper the sweetness. Five grams of espresso powder is also too much and makes the frosting taste like coffee.

Two grams is enough to enhance the flavor of the chocolate without adding a pronounced coffee flavor.

Finally, I've never made a flour-thickened pudding that took only 2-3 minutes to thicken. This took 5-6 minutes on medium heat. You have no go by texture, not time.

If the editor fixes the instructions, I don't doubt the frosting will be delicious. The texture is fantastic.

pattycakes June 17, 2021

I can't wait to try it and see how it differs in taste from the way I've been making it. My ermine frosting is very popular, but it's made so differently (& I have a feeling it's wrong lol). I've just been cooking the milk & flour until a thick paste (it cools & plops into the butter almost like gelatin), & creaming the butter & sugar - all with a paddle attachment and beating med/ high for 10 min. Idk how it turns out so good lol, but i bet your's is better. I'm trying it today!

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52 (2024)

FAQs

What is the difference between buttercream frosting and Ermine frosting? ›

How does ermine frosting differ from other frostings? Unlike Italian and French buttercreams, which are made with eggs (whites only in the case of Italian, whole eggs in the case of French) and sugar syrup, ermine frosting is egg-free, and it eliminates the fussy step of streaming hot syrup into a running mixer.

Why is my Ermine buttercream runny? ›

If your ermine frosting is too runny, check the temperature. If it's a warm day, the butter may have been too warm before mixing, causing the frosting to become less stable. Softened butter should land around 65 to 70°F for best results.

What is the secret to buttercream? ›

The secret ingredient in this recipe is time. Most people whip their butter for only a few minutes before adding in sugar, but you'll never achieve a light and airy result this way. This frosting recipe takes its literal sweet time to really incorporate as much air as possible into the butter.

What is the smoothest type of buttercream? ›

Swiss meringue buttercream is silky smooth and less sweet than American buttercream. Because of the cooked sugar, it also does not form a crust and is a relatively stable style of buttercream. It is also a very pale ivory color which makes it perfect for adding color.

Why is my ermine frosting not smooth? ›

If it's heavy and dense, if it has a greasy texture, or if it seems curdled, it will need to be warmed and re-whipped. If it's too soft or loose to hang from a spoon without dropping, it will need to be cooled and re-whipped. These are routine adjustments, not a sign of failure.

What buttercream do professional bakers use? ›

Also more simply known as Swiss Buttercream, this buttercream is popular amongst the professionals. It is more difficult and time-consuming to create than American Buttercream, but it's silky smooth and light texture makes it worth the extra effort.

How stable is Ermine buttercream? ›

The good thing about ermine is with the minimal butter used and roux base, you get a stable buttercream that lasts longer in warmer climates. And, not only is Ermine stable but versatile too!

How do you fix broken Ermine buttercream? ›

My Ermine Buttercream is curdled:

First, it's completely normal that at the early stage, it curdles a bit, just keep whipping. If you still have a curdle buttercream: either the pudding base or the butter was too cold. Keep whipping a little bit, and it might come together.

Why is my ermine frosting splitting? ›

Frosting curdles: There's too much moisture, causing the butter to “break.” Frosting is greasy: This frosting is sensitive to heat. If you're decorating with the frosting and it starts to get soft and greasy, pop it in the refrigerator until it cools down a bit and firms up, 10-30 minutes.

What is the hardest buttercream to make? ›

Italian Meringue Buttercream

This is considered one of the very difficult methods for making buttercream because the sugar syrup must be cooked to a specific temperature and then, while piping hot, poured into the whipped egg whites.

What not to do with buttercream? ›

5 Mistakes to Avoid When Making Buttercream
  1. Starting with cold butter. ...
  2. Using a butter substitute. ...
  3. Using the wrong type of sugar for the job. ...
  4. Adding too much liquid. ...
  5. Giving up on your broken buttercream.
Dec 3, 2022

Can you overbeat buttercream? ›

Yes, this is absolutely correct. The longer you beat, the more air you incorporate in your buttercream, thus, it will have lots of holes or air-pockets, it will also make the colour lighter. If you will use your buttercream primarily for filling or maybe as simple swirls, then this is ok.

Is Ermine buttercream better than American buttercream? ›

It's not as sweet as American buttercream, but it isn't light and airy like meringue buttercream. The great thing about Ermine Frosting is that it is more stable than American buttercream, but you don't have to mess with eggs like the European versions.

What does Ermine frosting taste like? ›

The flavor has a bright vanilla and milky-dairy flavor with the slightest taste of butter at the end. Some describe it as similar to whipped cream. This is reasonably accurate - whipped cream is well, cream, and this frosting has a large proportion of butter and milk.

What is the best buttercream in the world? ›

1. Swiss Meringue Buttercream. This is the Queen of Frosting. Imagine the melt-in-mouth texture of ice cream, just at room temperature.

Does ermine frosting taste like buttercream? ›

What is ermine frosting? Ermine buttercream is a type of cake frosting that goes by many names, including boiled milk, cooked flour, heritage, or Ermine frosting. The texture and flavor of this frosting are unlike any other buttercream I've tested. It's light and fluffy with a very mild sweetness and buttery flavor.

Is buttercream or whipped frosting better for cake? ›

Whipped frosting is not only a little less sweet than buttercream, but its texture is much lighter and airier. If you prefer a fluffier mouthfeel, there are plenty of opportunities to use whipped frosting on your desserts, like for a homemade birthday cake or simple cakes, such as a classic pound cake or a butter cake.

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